India
Dearest,
I know that it has been a long time in the coming of my India 2 and I have lots to tell so I am afraid that you shall receive a big fat dose all at once.
But first, in case I am not able to send another such dose in the next week you know that I wish you the most wonderful New Year. I would say x-mas too normally, but since I am in the middle of nowhere it doesn't really exist for me this year.
The few lined version...here is the explanation.
I have been roaming around Punjab and was about to send an update. Before sitting before a PC for hrs I thought I would take the opportunity to visit the northern most state of India. The foot hills of the Himalayas become very cold very quickly and I had heard of a rather remarkable school tucked away in the hills. I called the principle and he after his warmest welcome I went up. I have been there ever since. This is my second week now out of civilization as we know it and hrs away from any internet site. I am very sorry for those for who were worrying, I have been trying to arrange a ride out to Chandigarh or another big city to use the net for days now....but rides are scare.
I have decided to spend a month freezing by butt for the challenge, and because it is actually a very inspiring place. Out in the middle of nowhere this boarding school of over 1000 students is one of the best in India and I am here working learning classical music, to read and write Punjabi, and generally get my hands dirty with things that I haven't had the opportunity to to date;)
Now the promised fat dose...
Another India
Pooja and I had been told not to shorten this trip for the sake of trying to cram in other countries for apparently India equals a thousand countries in its ginormous self.
But I do not think that this hit home until we ventured out to a different state in our second week. Just the train station when we arrived Amritsar said volumes. The air smelt of cow dung, men were dressed in village toties (a cloth wrapped around the waist to cover their legs) and carried huge bundles upon their heads and everything seemed to be dusty. Not expecting the hoards of taxi whallas that crowded around we were thankfully rescued by Pooj's small cousin who had come with her father in search of two western relatives that they were informed of only the day before.
Family
We were swiftly taken by their car to the house and there warmly and tightly embraced by every one of the seven family members, an embrace that lasted for the entire week!
There is no holding back in Indian hospitality we learnt and were immediately adopted as daughters. This meant that every need was catered for and in return the upmost respect was given. So when I informed of my plans to stay at the Golden Temple, the center temple for the Sikh faith, I was to respect the fact that they rather I didn't do so during the manic diwali season. You all know how well I respond to sensibility that comes with a 'no', so some cultural adjustment had to take place...but I could never have imagined the the extent to which this was to happen over the next few weeks!
The conversations that took place in that household over the following week I think say a lot about the differences there is between western and India culture. They ranged from, the lack of respect we show to our elders in the west, to the father's theory that all Indians that are living in the west shall have an identity crisis within two to three generations and they shall sit in a very uncomfortable position, not feeling a sense of belonging to either nation. Amritsar has experienced a very traumatic 15 years, due the Sikh's demand of their own homeland, which was crushed in brutally militant way by the Indian Government. As a Sikh living in a Hindu household in Amritsar I was amazed at the difference in their accounts of the Indian history, in comparison to the Sikhs in the same place. A difficult thing to comprehend co! nsidering that all children are taught the same history in school, showing it is our own experiences that colours or version of history rather than literature.
The amount of laughter that went on in this family was so heartening and both Pooj and I went away judging family size in terms of fun with personalities rather than in terms of expense and responsibility. Each family member had their own unique position in the home's dynamics, all were equally appreciated, loved and laughed at...'taking the piss' was a phrase that would be uttered many a times by me!
Festivals
I thought that I would be naming this Diwali, but little did I know that Indians like to create a party for everything, just as long as fireworks can be involved. A good indicator of the change in the India that I met 8 years ago and the one that I am seeing today, I think is the improvement that I am seeing in fireworks. Diwali was indeed lit with a bang! But not the dangerous blow your fingers along with it type of Bang, in Amritsar at least the displays that had been organized were truly spectacular. Course extremely colourful, flabouyant and covering every assortment of rockets, whizzing things, fountains...I was watching this particular from inside the grounds of the Golden Temple, and the fireworks were arranged such t! hat they seem to come from the sky above you to become sparkles in your eyes. The sky was lit, and the child's part was the cover the walkways, any ledge, and the side of all stairs with divas (small clay decorative cradle with a thick wick that sits in a little oil so that it is forever lit), these were also placed as floating candles on the lake of holy water in the middle of which the Golden Temple sits.
Food and family was everywhere. Everyone had come together to share their joy and festive mood. The place was buzzing day and night, as everyone was out to visit friends and family with gifts (the family we were staying with got an over load of fruit bowls?!), going out to pick up the array of sweets and special foods that had been made with particular love in the run up, everyone went all out in how they were to treat all those around them. It was made sure that the family had the gift of a sari ready even for the doorman's wife! I felt the buzz as I was whizzed around and in between all the aroromous, dazzling, and chaotically happy alleys with my singing autos (electric rickshaw) whalla.
Hindu's and sikh's would then have a huge family meal, light fireworks, and perform a prayer or Puja in the house, before going out again at night to the sound of more entertaining friends and music, the smell of more luxurious food, and the sight of the family getting dressed up again. I thought diwali was yesterday, was that the eve I stupidly asked. They roared with laughter, no today is a different day, you are not dreaming, today we are going to celebrate our brother/sisters, it is Tika.
Ok, so this is when the sister thanks God for her beloved brother and affectionately fills the parting of hair on his forehead with a red powder and feeds him with a juicy sweet cake. He in return shows his gratitude for her by giving her a gift. This time jumpers (pull overs for the Americans out there) were all the rage, and course, and when dealing with a distant cousin sister good ole money went down well.
A few days later the place was bought to a stand still with firweworks again, for it was Maharaja Ranjit Singh's bicentinery. Who is this guy? An infamous Indian emperor who ruled Amritsar, and then Punjab and then all surrounding areas including the Afghanistan (the only foreign ruler to have ever gained legitimate rule of the Country - ever!). But apart from being great at battles, despite only having one eye, he was most respected for the fact that ruled with single vision too. He is the only ruler who has been able to make the Punjabi's feel Punjabi before Hindu, Sikh or Muslim. A devout and humble Sikh himself, and responsible for the gold that covers the Golden Temple today and the fact that many Hindu families decided that their first born shall be raised in the Sikhism, he was a admirably secular ruler. Thankfully for the Indians he was known to have a sense of humour too, and so could laugh at the lady who came to him during his morning walk and smacked him over the head with a heavy iron pan. That evening she was taken to court and he asked her "WHY???"
"I had heard that whatever you touch turns to gold she said directly."
He chuckled to a guardsman beside him and she left the court that evening with a heavy gold pan in her hands. Anyway, so in remembrance of him and Amritsar went bezerk yet again, and this time the Indian President came down to join them...so the masses of security made things even more fun. In processions that were held I think the number of police exceeded the public, and they would always have something to say to you, but never anything of value!
The shows were worth it though, with 15 men standing on one riding motorcycle, to camels that were dressed up fit for a king, and brave horse tricks and swordsmanship...in one display the fighter was blinded folded and still sliced a banana out of the mouth of his opponent with one heavy duty sword!
In all Amritsar was continual entertainment and a lot of fun, and after my Ghatka classes had finished (the Sikh Martial art that is based on empowerment through the skilful handling of a sword - though I was taught with a wooden baton like stick) I went to visit my mothers closest friend in Ludhiana. Now to cut a long story short after being mothered the whole weekend, and I did not mind the great home cooked food prepared with love I then went to the Garden State of Chandigarh. This is seen as the cleanest place in India. It is true, the streets are wide and leafy, there is no chaotic traffic, or huge crowds that leave litter in their wake, or people living on top of one another. But compared to the rest of India this highly organized state seem! ed dead. It sat somewhere uncomfortably between the first world and the third world and was a place for the retired. As you can probably tell I didn't like the endless suburbs and primness of the place...and so was glad that there was yet another celebration in swing. Gurpur is a national holiday
(Nov 30th) in celebration of the birth of the Guru that found the Sikh religion... that something made the people jump out on to even these empty streets and dance.
Pilgrimage
By now it is evident that the Indians love to worship and Pilgrimage sites scatter India. But course they are always in hard to reach areas in order to test the level of your faith. I decided to visit a 'site of pilgrimage' that was an hour away from Amritsar, by taxi. How is it a pilgrimage I hear you ask...
Wait for this test of devotion...
You do not have to climb huge mountains, or travels across 5 rivers, but rather simply walk down 84 steps to the holy water at a bottom of the well. Ok, now try doing this in the freezing cold temperatures, because it is a tunnel for the cold November air, to bathe in the holy but cold water, and then to read a prayer (which takes approx 15mins) whilst standing in the pool. Now come the test. You move up one sep out of the pool and read the same prayer and then go back down to bathe. Climb up two and read the prayer then go to wash yourself again, then climb up to the third step...repeat the action...
You get the picture. Completion is likely to be (approx) 38 hrs later climbing slowly up all eighty four steps. Why 84? In Sikh Holy Scriptures it is written that a soul will transmigrate through 8, 400, 000 lives and as you wash at after praying at each step you wash yourself of 100 000 transmigrations. The aim of this pilgrimage thus, for one who performs with the purest heart and intention is to wash away all the transmigrations that are awaiting your soul.
To get a realist picture of those that performed this pilgrimage...think of going down to bathe in the cold pool for the 50th time, at 3am, when temperatures are 12 degree Celsius and course the clothes that you change into are of course wet by now. This after a gruelling day when day visitors walk past and stare at your madness, but you would rather that then push yourself in the wee hours of the morning without the body heat and smiles of the crowds.
One for challenge Anneka I think!
I know that it has been a long time in the coming of my India 2 and I have lots to tell so I am afraid that you shall receive a big fat dose all at once.
But first, in case I am not able to send another such dose in the next week you know that I wish you the most wonderful New Year. I would say x-mas too normally, but since I am in the middle of nowhere it doesn't really exist for me this year.
The few lined version...here is the explanation.
I have been roaming around Punjab and was about to send an update. Before sitting before a PC for hrs I thought I would take the opportunity to visit the northern most state of India. The foot hills of the Himalayas become very cold very quickly and I had heard of a rather remarkable school tucked away in the hills. I called the principle and he after his warmest welcome I went up. I have been there ever since. This is my second week now out of civilization as we know it and hrs away from any internet site. I am very sorry for those for who were worrying, I have been trying to arrange a ride out to Chandigarh or another big city to use the net for days now....but rides are scare.
I have decided to spend a month freezing by butt for the challenge, and because it is actually a very inspiring place. Out in the middle of nowhere this boarding school of over 1000 students is one of the best in India and I am here working learning classical music, to read and write Punjabi, and generally get my hands dirty with things that I haven't had the opportunity to to date;)
Now the promised fat dose...
Another India
Pooja and I had been told not to shorten this trip for the sake of trying to cram in other countries for apparently India equals a thousand countries in its ginormous self.
But I do not think that this hit home until we ventured out to a different state in our second week. Just the train station when we arrived Amritsar said volumes. The air smelt of cow dung, men were dressed in village toties (a cloth wrapped around the waist to cover their legs) and carried huge bundles upon their heads and everything seemed to be dusty. Not expecting the hoards of taxi whallas that crowded around we were thankfully rescued by Pooj's small cousin who had come with her father in search of two western relatives that they were informed of only the day before.
Family
We were swiftly taken by their car to the house and there warmly and tightly embraced by every one of the seven family members, an embrace that lasted for the entire week!
There is no holding back in Indian hospitality we learnt and were immediately adopted as daughters. This meant that every need was catered for and in return the upmost respect was given. So when I informed of my plans to stay at the Golden Temple, the center temple for the Sikh faith, I was to respect the fact that they rather I didn't do so during the manic diwali season. You all know how well I respond to sensibility that comes with a 'no', so some cultural adjustment had to take place...but I could never have imagined the the extent to which this was to happen over the next few weeks!
The conversations that took place in that household over the following week I think say a lot about the differences there is between western and India culture. They ranged from, the lack of respect we show to our elders in the west, to the father's theory that all Indians that are living in the west shall have an identity crisis within two to three generations and they shall sit in a very uncomfortable position, not feeling a sense of belonging to either nation. Amritsar has experienced a very traumatic 15 years, due the Sikh's demand of their own homeland, which was crushed in brutally militant way by the Indian Government. As a Sikh living in a Hindu household in Amritsar I was amazed at the difference in their accounts of the Indian history, in comparison to the Sikhs in the same place. A difficult thing to comprehend co! nsidering that all children are taught the same history in school, showing it is our own experiences that colours or version of history rather than literature.
The amount of laughter that went on in this family was so heartening and both Pooj and I went away judging family size in terms of fun with personalities rather than in terms of expense and responsibility. Each family member had their own unique position in the home's dynamics, all were equally appreciated, loved and laughed at...'taking the piss' was a phrase that would be uttered many a times by me!
Festivals
I thought that I would be naming this Diwali, but little did I know that Indians like to create a party for everything, just as long as fireworks can be involved. A good indicator of the change in the India that I met 8 years ago and the one that I am seeing today, I think is the improvement that I am seeing in fireworks. Diwali was indeed lit with a bang! But not the dangerous blow your fingers along with it type of Bang, in Amritsar at least the displays that had been organized were truly spectacular. Course extremely colourful, flabouyant and covering every assortment of rockets, whizzing things, fountains...I was watching this particular from inside the grounds of the Golden Temple, and the fireworks were arranged such t! hat they seem to come from the sky above you to become sparkles in your eyes. The sky was lit, and the child's part was the cover the walkways, any ledge, and the side of all stairs with divas (small clay decorative cradle with a thick wick that sits in a little oil so that it is forever lit), these were also placed as floating candles on the lake of holy water in the middle of which the Golden Temple sits.
Food and family was everywhere. Everyone had come together to share their joy and festive mood. The place was buzzing day and night, as everyone was out to visit friends and family with gifts (the family we were staying with got an over load of fruit bowls?!), going out to pick up the array of sweets and special foods that had been made with particular love in the run up, everyone went all out in how they were to treat all those around them. It was made sure that the family had the gift of a sari ready even for the doorman's wife! I felt the buzz as I was whizzed around and in between all the aroromous, dazzling, and chaotically happy alleys with my singing autos (electric rickshaw) whalla.
Hindu's and sikh's would then have a huge family meal, light fireworks, and perform a prayer or Puja in the house, before going out again at night to the sound of more entertaining friends and music, the smell of more luxurious food, and the sight of the family getting dressed up again. I thought diwali was yesterday, was that the eve I stupidly asked. They roared with laughter, no today is a different day, you are not dreaming, today we are going to celebrate our brother/sisters, it is Tika.
Ok, so this is when the sister thanks God for her beloved brother and affectionately fills the parting of hair on his forehead with a red powder and feeds him with a juicy sweet cake. He in return shows his gratitude for her by giving her a gift. This time jumpers (pull overs for the Americans out there) were all the rage, and course, and when dealing with a distant cousin sister good ole money went down well.
A few days later the place was bought to a stand still with firweworks again, for it was Maharaja Ranjit Singh's bicentinery. Who is this guy? An infamous Indian emperor who ruled Amritsar, and then Punjab and then all surrounding areas including the Afghanistan (the only foreign ruler to have ever gained legitimate rule of the Country - ever!). But apart from being great at battles, despite only having one eye, he was most respected for the fact that ruled with single vision too. He is the only ruler who has been able to make the Punjabi's feel Punjabi before Hindu, Sikh or Muslim. A devout and humble Sikh himself, and responsible for the gold that covers the Golden Temple today and the fact that many Hindu families decided that their first born shall be raised in the Sikhism, he was a admirably secular ruler. Thankfully for the Indians he was known to have a sense of humour too, and so could laugh at the lady who came to him during his morning walk and smacked him over the head with a heavy iron pan. That evening she was taken to court and he asked her "WHY???"
"I had heard that whatever you touch turns to gold she said directly."
He chuckled to a guardsman beside him and she left the court that evening with a heavy gold pan in her hands. Anyway, so in remembrance of him and Amritsar went bezerk yet again, and this time the Indian President came down to join them...so the masses of security made things even more fun. In processions that were held I think the number of police exceeded the public, and they would always have something to say to you, but never anything of value!
The shows were worth it though, with 15 men standing on one riding motorcycle, to camels that were dressed up fit for a king, and brave horse tricks and swordsmanship...in one display the fighter was blinded folded and still sliced a banana out of the mouth of his opponent with one heavy duty sword!
In all Amritsar was continual entertainment and a lot of fun, and after my Ghatka classes had finished (the Sikh Martial art that is based on empowerment through the skilful handling of a sword - though I was taught with a wooden baton like stick) I went to visit my mothers closest friend in Ludhiana. Now to cut a long story short after being mothered the whole weekend, and I did not mind the great home cooked food prepared with love I then went to the Garden State of Chandigarh. This is seen as the cleanest place in India. It is true, the streets are wide and leafy, there is no chaotic traffic, or huge crowds that leave litter in their wake, or people living on top of one another. But compared to the rest of India this highly organized state seem! ed dead. It sat somewhere uncomfortably between the first world and the third world and was a place for the retired. As you can probably tell I didn't like the endless suburbs and primness of the place...and so was glad that there was yet another celebration in swing. Gurpur is a national holiday
(Nov 30th) in celebration of the birth of the Guru that found the Sikh religion... that something made the people jump out on to even these empty streets and dance.
Pilgrimage
By now it is evident that the Indians love to worship and Pilgrimage sites scatter India. But course they are always in hard to reach areas in order to test the level of your faith. I decided to visit a 'site of pilgrimage' that was an hour away from Amritsar, by taxi. How is it a pilgrimage I hear you ask...
Wait for this test of devotion...
You do not have to climb huge mountains, or travels across 5 rivers, but rather simply walk down 84 steps to the holy water at a bottom of the well. Ok, now try doing this in the freezing cold temperatures, because it is a tunnel for the cold November air, to bathe in the holy but cold water, and then to read a prayer (which takes approx 15mins) whilst standing in the pool. Now come the test. You move up one sep out of the pool and read the same prayer and then go back down to bathe. Climb up two and read the prayer then go to wash yourself again, then climb up to the third step...repeat the action...
You get the picture. Completion is likely to be (approx) 38 hrs later climbing slowly up all eighty four steps. Why 84? In Sikh Holy Scriptures it is written that a soul will transmigrate through 8, 400, 000 lives and as you wash at after praying at each step you wash yourself of 100 000 transmigrations. The aim of this pilgrimage thus, for one who performs with the purest heart and intention is to wash away all the transmigrations that are awaiting your soul.
To get a realist picture of those that performed this pilgrimage...think of going down to bathe in the cold pool for the 50th time, at 3am, when temperatures are 12 degree Celsius and course the clothes that you change into are of course wet by now. This after a gruelling day when day visitors walk past and stare at your madness, but you would rather that then push yourself in the wee hours of the morning without the body heat and smiles of the crowds.
One for challenge Anneka I think!
posted by Mandeep Rai at 8:47 AM
0 Comments:
Post a Comment
<< Home