Japan is just so Japanese
Japan is by far one of the biggest culture shocks that I have ever experienced, and if I were to describe it in one sentence, I would say it is one of the most exciting places on earth, and this is said without any exaggeration.
Ever since the moment I have arrived, it has felt as though I am in a bizarre film in which every pleasure that you can ever imagine is thrown your way. Beauty, style, design, ease, fashion, love, sex, respect, grace, honour, helpfulness, delicious food, perfectly tailored and flattering clothes, games, toys, lovely weather, hospitable – pleased and pleasing people. I could go on…but essentially the foreigner here feels really good.
This could be explained by the rather child like way in which the Japanese live. Minimum responsibility and maximum fun! During my first evening in Tokyo this society was described brilliantly to me as a land of adolescents. At first found this to be an insult of the Japanese people, but the more time I have spent here, the more I enjoy this explanation.
Working perfectly
Firstly, everything works, perfectly and so you really do not have to worry about a thing. This goes for the transport system, that you can set your watch by - any and every time. None of the London styli – tubes delays, or NY styli – the F train becoming the E train half way through a journey, or Paris styli – smelliness and heat. No, this is by far the easiest city in the world to get around. Either by walking: for the streets are immaculate, always safe for men and women no matter what you might by wearing, carrying, or projecting. Or via public transport: which is perfectly efficient, reasonably priced (approx 1-2 dollars a ride) and advanced in design. There are videos provided as entertainment in the underground trains, organised advertising, and there are different levels of handles available for everyone to hold, I know I am easily impressed perhaps, but when you are about to fall in someone's lap in London you think about these things. Here the underground is so smooth you can stand (even sleep) during your whole ride and not have to hold anything!
Just yesterday I watched a woman who was asleep standing over a man who was seated below her, who was also asleep. They were both in what seemed like deep sleep – the kind in which you can accidentally dribble. And she did…the slitter of saliva fell from her mouth, slid down her chin and… fell…fell all the way down off her own face and dropped onto the man's hand. He, also being asleep, was completely unaware of what had just happened, but woke as soon as the dribble hit his hand. His immediate reaction was embarrassment (it comes easily to the Japanese) and he rapidly licked the dribble off his hand, thinking it was his own, and then wiped his mouth in case of any excess. The lady standing over him saw the whole thing and was mortified! She walked away to stand elsewhere, her eyes wide and blushing pink. There really is no where as polite as Japan!
Or there are taxis, which are equally brilliant, and symbolic of Japan's attention to detail. As you approach the taxi the backdoor will automatically open, because it is controlled by the driver, and you slip into clean back seats that are covered in immaculate white doyleys as a stamp of hygiene. The driver is fully equipped with every gadget at the front, so that your journey is as efficient and direct as possible – and the GSP is the first device to be consulted (as opposed to the continuation of his telephone conversation as in NYC).You arrive, you pay, you are treated with the utmost respect as though you are almost royalty, the door is opened for you and you walk out and are on your way, as the door automatically and silently closes behind you.
Food
Then there is the food. Bread, grease, and sugary drinks, that are common in our daily diet in the west now upset my stomach. Japanese food is easily the healthiest in the world I think. There are very few fat people here, skin and hair radiates, and people live to a fine old age looking 20-30 years younger than they are. Surely fish, rice and miso soup has something about it then. The average westerner has 4.5 kilos of fish a year, compared to the average Japanese who would have 67 kilos of fish, so of course there would be some difference in our physique. But they are so very much more healthy that this difference is more than just an observation, it feels as though it is a secret truth. Furthermore, the food is delicious. I have never been so keen on Sushi or noodles when eaten in the west, but here, it is something else. The blend of ingredients, the freshness and the size of portions, make each meal time an absolute delight. On top of which, the drinks are refreshing (iced tea, caspis (pronounced cow piss, so there is an alternative name available in English ;-), and barley wheat are examples) and there is warming green tea offered with everything, and strong but tasty Japanese beer or warm or cold sake (strong rice wine or whiskey) as the classic alcoholic alternative. These are just a few examples, for the list of curries and noodles are endless, but you get my point.
Design
Design is everywhere and perfectly blended with art. In homes everything is compact and well thought out, and generally there is minimalist theme present. So there are little spaces or containers for almost everything. Tokyo is perhaps one of the most expensive cities in terms of real estate in the world, so space is well used, but even outside Tokyo, the more that can be done with space the better, especially given the relationship between space, cleanliness and order, with harmony. So, there is little clumber some furniture, because everything can be done easily on the floor (sitting, eating, relaxing etc) and containers and wardrobes save space, and keep the possibility of chaos away.
Gadgets
This leads me neatly on to the gadgets and gismos. Now where do I or can I begin? This area is too large to cover thoroughly, but I can sum up by saying that technology is easily 2-3 years ahead than anywhere else in the world, and perhaps will always reach a level that is incomprehensible to the western world due to our inability to read manuals I was told yesterday. This is true given the fact that a simple VHS still causes confusion in some households in the west, proven by a recent marketing, whilst here even a PDA is seen as outdated. I was amazed by the replacement of a palm, that was shown to me yesterday. It was a laptop, with the same capability and functionality as the laptops that we use, but the size of a PDA. I am not sure how it was possible, but believe me when I say that even typing on the tiny keypad was made easy due to the spacing used. Then there are the mobile phones. OMG! We really are behind when I look at what everyone is carrying here, and given the fact that almost everyone changes their mobile phone here, on average, every six months, they really are all carrying the latest. Well, here all mobile phones can assist your navigation anywhere in the world, not only through built in GPS, and the internet – such that you can browse on your cell phone, read a book, edit the photo or film that you have just taken with your cell, send and receive emails, check any newspaper or service provider, download music in any format from the net, store anything additional on the inbuilt memory card readers, etc – but they are all java scripted, so that you can program them to do whatever you which by rewriting or adding programs. Too good to be true? Feel free to check any of this technology via the website for i-mode. Technology here is not used to make life more complicated, but rather to make life as easy as could be possible. So you if are disabled, or generally require home help, then there are robots available of every description ready to complete any task, from cleaning the house to cleaning and looking after you. I kid you not. Infact, there are such devices in every household. For example, I have not been to a public or private toilet yet, which is not designed such that you need to do nothing apart from sit down on it. The seat is thermostatically controlled so that it is never too cold for your bum. You do your part, of releasing your waste, and if that it is difficult, the toilet can make the sound of a waterfall, or bring peace through the sound of chirping birds, or make the fake sound of a toilet flushing in case you want to make noise and are too embarrassed to (as is the case for women in public toilets). Then once you have released, water will squirt up or sideways, depending on your preference, cleaning everything, and then warm air will dry your backside, which is more hygienic and preferable to using tissues. The toilet can even talk to you if you wish. Though I have never been on one long enough, because the process is made so efficient!
Vending
Now, if this still does not seem like a easy place to be, then imagine that you can get anything that you want at anytime from a vending machine. Beyond fast food, drinks and cigarettes, you can get complete meals from any nationality (naan bread and curries included!), any toy or gadget or appliance, and even soiled school girls knickers, if that is what turns you on! I kid you not, and I so wish I were!
School Girls
This brings me on to the school girls. I arrived on Saturday, when there were many girls out on the streets, dressed in school uniform, so I thought that perhaps school runs until Saturday morning. But I saw just as many girls on Sunday, and the skirts were short, the socks were always knee length and ties were fashionably loose. I decided to mention them in conversation and was told that these were the modern day geishas almost. Some girls were dressed in this way because it is iconic of youth and sexiness right now, but others were dressed in this way, because this was THE outfit to be a hostess in, and entertain men. A very popular activity in Japan, and a lucrative extra activity for women or girls. There are other big fashions too – belts for a skirt, stiletto's and tight, ripped, tops (fur and velvet) are popular right now, gothic and what I can only described as Madonna from the eighties. What runs in common in all three styles are extremism. Girls, and boys here, have hair of every colour, style and form. Why? Because when you are all born with black hair and brown eyes, then something has to be done to make you look different and for you to stand out. Hence the importance of fashion. Branded goods are another way to make yourself stand out, and purses are the primary mode of competition.
Impressed
Straight back is essential and everything is designed with this in mind, from the futon to the seating, or rather, the lack of seating. In a traditional Japanese home it is normal to spend more time on the floor than on chairs, and the taught position is to buckle your legs underneath you so that you are sitting with a straight back with your bum on your feet almost. A family will eat on the floor and then relax on the floor, and so there is no cushioning to encourage slumber, and self discipline and training is required. Sitting and eating lower down is also a sign of humility and respect…all good things.
Everything in a Japanese home, and I mean everything, is also neat and tidy. More than that, it is immaculate. I was at a friend's home recently and the damp chilled towels handed around before and after dinner, even though we all washed our hands before and after dinner is an example of the mix of eastern and western traditions making Japan seem a little over the top re. cleanliness and hygiene. Everything was like this. For example, you take your shoes off before entering a house - an eastern tradition, but then this is taken a step further because you will be given a pair of slippers for your visit instead. This is to protect your feet from the spotless wooden floor, and to protect the floor from your soft clean feet. On top of this, there may be some rooms, such as the bathroom, which will have it's own pair of slippers, awaiting your arrival. They were always ready and waiting so that they are the first thing that you encounter as you open the door, and they face the bathroom, so that you can just slip them on. I suppose that this is well thought out, because in the middle of the night it could be that you forget to wear your own slippers. Or for example, there was not a spec of dust to be seen, yet everything was covered just in case, such as the fruit in the fruit bowl. In a similar fashion I noticed that it was not uncommon to wear white gloves linen gloves when going outside, especially if using public transport. A delicate reminder of how it is important to stay clean and hygienic, and checking the environment around you.
Hard Working
There is not only competition in how one looks, but also on how one performs, in the work place. The Japanese are very hard working, and the longer you are seen to be spending in the office the better. Face time is important, as well as obedience. The way to succeed professionally is to always agree with your boss, ask as few questions as possible and say yes a lot. If in anyway you manage to disrespect (the biggest no, no) then you quickly bow, beg forgiveness, and almost false a stutter – showing how deeply embarrassed you are. The more I listen to Japanese, the more I realise that this stutter is easy to perform and sounds great when infused with the quiet, polite, mind language. So you might wonder how it is that they are so successful, if any kind variation from the hierarchy is so frowned upon. Where does innovation come from? Well, this is the surprising thing, there is little innovation, the success of the Japanese comes from the fact that they are able to research to the n-th degree, and create thorough and complete structures and systems, that have considered every eventuality and that everyone then follows.
Educational System
A disagreement between the Japanese is the most educational scene I have come across yet. Both parties keep nodding their head, and saying yes (they will avoid saying no, at all costs) and they make no agreement and no decision (because then one would be obviously wrong or in shame before another). So in the work place, decisions are made very slowly, especially because no one wants to take responsibility for the decision anyway). But once made, a good few years later, then everyone in the company will follow it completely, and there will be no waste of time in disagreement or divergence. If you are ever thought to question something, then your immediate reaction (if you are sitting on the floor for example) should be to bring your head down, before your knees, so that it is touching the floor, and place both of your hands on either side of your head. (For anyone who has seen Memoirs of a Geisha recently, you would recognise this). It is a perfectly normal and even expected way to say sorry, even today. There are many consequences of this that I am sure you can imagine. You are in a presentation, whether it is at school or the workplace – you would never ever question the presenter. Whether you understand or not, or even if it is to improve the presentation – never must you question and undermine the presenter's authority. So often there may be misunderstandings etc, but all questions should be asked in private, so that authority and respect remain in tact.
Engrish is brilliant. It is not English – but Engrish – the oriental version of English. I have a T-shirt now that says: 'Eric, Clapton?'
And one that says: 'I am so happy that I just want to go Bang!'
My favourite printing company, based on the heart of Kyoto: 'Screw Press'
And the best sign that I have seen on the door of a restaurant: 'Kill you Kindly'
Perhaps it was meant to say 'Will you kindly'…keep the door closed?! I am not sure, but I guess the Japanese are. Engrish is everywhere, and it is great – you will have a laugh several times a day, plus, guaranteed!
Silence
Silence is bliss. It is the desired state of being, and a reflection of harmony.
I did not realize, but from the moment I arrived I have really enjoyed this fact. Just slipped into it, so that my hearing is much more attuned, and if there is any disturbance of peace then I am the first to notice and you want to fix it immediately. Even the music is really delicate and harmonious.
Culture
I had learned a lot about the culture, the hard way. For example, I had managed to offend my Japanese friends family even before arrival. They had invited me to attend a traditional tea ceremony on Sunday afternoon. I had arrived into Japan on Saturday evening, and feel asleep like every other Japanese, after a good round food, drink and Karaoke, in a Alice in Wonderland themed room. I awoke the next day when a friend was gently calling my name, and the day was breaking. Is everything alright? I was asked. Hummmm…yes, great, why, whats happened? Um…nothing, that is the point, you slept through the whole day and your Japanese friend, Hide, was becoming worried.
Child-like
The society works so well that people do not have to think. Everything is done for them, especially for their countries, and so very few issues have to be addressed.
People fall asleep everywhere, in the tube - ok, so we have seen that else where but here you look for the person awake. They are so polite though, and considerate of others, that they would do anything but disturb the person next to them. It is all about personal space, but not in order to maintain your own but to make sure that the other has it. For example, most books are small, as are gadgets or anything else, but even normally big things, like a broadsheet newspaper, will be folded up so neatly so that you can read it without disturbing another.
Single women
A survey was carried out amongst single women in Japan, which learned that over 72% would rather stay single than marry. When I spoke to women about this statistic they would generally agree and then explain why. Traditionally marriages were arranged, and this culture is still strong, but more and more young people find their own, but as with anything in Japan, this is still done through introduction. In the Japanese culture there are like speed dating events that happen all the time, all over the country, because this is what is just to match make now, as opposed to the parents. A friend will invite a group of his/her single male and female friends, in the hope that one couple will hit it off, and since everyone knows what this socialising is for, conversations naturally lead to subjects like marriage, etc, and normally at least one couple will be formed. Most couples that I met in Japan met in this way. This is because the family background, and knowing about the person through others is still important in Japan, firstly for ones own need for recommendation, but also because there are some particular things that a woman and man are looking for, which they would rather know was there, than to find out after they are attracted to one another. Traditionally a woman would stay at home, after marriage and be a house wife and raise children, whilst the man would work. This is so common that most men still give their entire salary to their wives, who then give their husband a little pocket money in return. Anyway, as salaries have increased, and women have begun to earn the same if not more than men, the need for women to marry has decreased. There is no need for financial support. So rather than give up their career the woman would rather not marry, and the older the lady becomes, the more true the phenomenon is. Most single women get to live with their parents, and so do not have any household responsibilities and they get to save a lot of money. From this description it would sound as though the women are being materialistic, but it is such reasons for which they would marry in the first place, and now it is for such reason that they would stay single. It is just more profitable to stay single. It is hard to do both, as is common in the west, because on the whole companies expect your life here. I was often alone, lost in Translation, not because I did not know anyone, but because everyone is at work, and they would leave for the office at 7 or 8 and not come home until 7-8 or even 9. Some friends would break for dinner at 10, and then go back to the office for 2am, whilst during my time in Japan, one of my closest Japanese friend even slept at the office.
Is this because they really work so hard, or that they are inefficient, or that this is to impress the boss with face time? Answer, all of the above. Furthermore, it is harder for women to receive promotions and rise within the company, so by the time that this does begin to happen, in their thirties, they have normally invested so much that they do not want to leave. As a consequence there are a lot of advertisements that show these career women, which used to show housewives. There are love hotels – room that you can book for three hours, for obvious reasons, host and hostess clubs – for a pretend girl/ boyfriend, and even comfort pillows – a pillow shaped as a man's chest or a ladies lap, for the lonely opposite sex. This June Japan official turned a corner, and has slipped into population decline, with fewer people marrying, it makes you wonder about the future of the Japanese. Of course, financial incentives are being offered by the government but they do not meet people's salaries, which are amongst the highest in the world. I rarely saw children in Tokyo, it is almost as though they do not exist, and those that I did see, act as well behaved miniature, well dressed little adults. They are adorable. Many people choose not to have a child, or only have one child, being manageable and less expensive. When you are on the Islands of Japan, it becomes hard to step back and think about how they cope with this problem of decreasing population else where.
Loneliness
But this is in fact not the reason I felt lonely. I think this was because of the language barrier and it was huge! But it is more that people are really guarded and did not talk. Not about important emotional things. Not to me, but not to each other either. Many people confirmed this for me. Therapists or counselling is almost unheard of, yet suicide is – in a big way. You would not believe it but Japan has one of the highest rates of suicide in the world. Out of a population of 120 million, it is estimated that at the very least 30,000 people commit suicide in Japan, alone. Most of this number is made up of men between the ages of 40-50. The most common reason for suicide are failed businesses. The man often has sole responsibility of earning for the household, and in such a situation the overly aggressive bullies that are employed to get lent money returned can make you and your family's life hell. This became such a problem that the Japanese had to introduce some special laws protecting people, but still the bullying continues. Often the wife and children have to begin working, and so the man may choose to commit suicide. Why? Mostly out of duty. Even this act is done to provide for his family by the health insurance payout that will result from his death. That is taking responsibility. So some parts of the Samaria mentality do continue in modern life. The second most commonly affected demographic are girls from 10-20. I do hope that the Japanese will begin to share, talk and confide more than I saw them doing so.
Perfect
The society is perfect in many ways. No disease, very little illness in fact and a life expectancy of almost one hundred – the highest in the world so they must be doing something right! There is also very little crime, and sometimes it felt like no crime. You can leave any bag, camera, purse anywhere, and it is also guaranteed to be there when you return. No one harms the other intentionally, and I think that this is one piece of evidence that this is one of the last remaining group mentality nations in the world. People do not think about themselves, they think about the group first. You can see this in really small examples too. No one J walks apart from Foreigners, because here, people are aware that the laws are made for a reason, and for everyone's overall benefit, so everybody respects.
Eternal Youth
This is really what it seems that the Japanese have. Even the old people only look a little wrinkly, they never look that old. Not sure how to explain it, but you rarely see anyone with a beer belly (they cannot genetically handle so much alcohol anyway), or dark circles, or bad skin, or saggy xyz. This is for several reasons, but I think that the main is their diet. Each meal is a real energy boost, and not only do you not feel tired after eating, but you also actually need a lot less sleep. Or least my period in Japan is the least amount of sleep I have ever needed, and others say the same. That is why they can work hard, and yet also party so hard. (And they do party, with perhaps one of the most vibrant night life in the world too!). Their diet means that they retain their good skin, silky hair, and hydrated skin. Do you feel sick yet?
The government is partly to thank for this. They make everything within the country or anything that has come from outside the country, healthy. McDonalds food is changed (watered down and purified) to meet Japanese regulations, as is anything imported. One example would be cheesecake, which is modified so that it only contains a fraction of fact compared to the original. Still the Japanese are obsessed with the fact that they might become fat, and so every packet has all nutritional value including the calories, as do most menu's in restaurant, snacks foods, and even drinks. What I found the most helpful is the fact that general stores here hardly carry any junk, but rather have packets filled with healthy sheets of seaweed. Or tuna! This may be your train, because I do not think that this is the last one.
No wonder they created the world within Japan, literally. There are little countries that have been recreated to the last detail, so that those that want to travel but without the inconvenience of disease or crime, can visit the mini Canada or Netherlands, say, without having to hassle with travelling or exchanging money!
Service
The service is incredible. You are greeted with a pleasant smile and respect all the time, with endless bows, which too makes you very willing to oblige and not displease. The result are respectful people everywhere, who speak in hushed tones and are sorry and thankful the whole time, ie. very polite. Simple things make all the difference and there does not appear to be any outward aggression. I am not sure where aggression, anger or frustration goes, but I would like to believe that it is being internally managed. Of course, Japan having on the highest suicide rates in the world would suggest that not everyone is balanced or trained in emotional management, but the government are working on this and there are more and more courses, counsellors and therapists available. Only it may not be the 'done' thing, quite yet.
Hiroshima
So Japan…well the place that I had heard about the most, perhaps even more often than Toyko, is Hiroshima. It is hard to imagine that there had been an nuclear bomb thrown into mid air directly above the centre of this city. The only nuclear attack that this world has ever seen, with unimaginable consequences. More than half a million people were killed in less than five seconds. The rest died a little after five minutes, and those that did not die in the bomb blast directly died in the aftermath of burning buildings, the rubble, the lack of food and water for days. There was a sudden desert as far as the eye could see, and everyone in this sphere died. But the list of deaths grows every today. But to talk about the II World War needs real sensitivity, and in Japan it is a subject better left alone.
There is so much to see in Japan otherwise…Kyoto, Osaka, Hemiji, Islands, the list goes on and on. This place is a real must.
Ever since the moment I have arrived, it has felt as though I am in a bizarre film in which every pleasure that you can ever imagine is thrown your way. Beauty, style, design, ease, fashion, love, sex, respect, grace, honour, helpfulness, delicious food, perfectly tailored and flattering clothes, games, toys, lovely weather, hospitable – pleased and pleasing people. I could go on…but essentially the foreigner here feels really good.
This could be explained by the rather child like way in which the Japanese live. Minimum responsibility and maximum fun! During my first evening in Tokyo this society was described brilliantly to me as a land of adolescents. At first found this to be an insult of the Japanese people, but the more time I have spent here, the more I enjoy this explanation.
Working perfectly
Firstly, everything works, perfectly and so you really do not have to worry about a thing. This goes for the transport system, that you can set your watch by - any and every time. None of the London styli – tubes delays, or NY styli – the F train becoming the E train half way through a journey, or Paris styli – smelliness and heat. No, this is by far the easiest city in the world to get around. Either by walking: for the streets are immaculate, always safe for men and women no matter what you might by wearing, carrying, or projecting. Or via public transport: which is perfectly efficient, reasonably priced (approx 1-2 dollars a ride) and advanced in design. There are videos provided as entertainment in the underground trains, organised advertising, and there are different levels of handles available for everyone to hold, I know I am easily impressed perhaps, but when you are about to fall in someone's lap in London you think about these things. Here the underground is so smooth you can stand (even sleep) during your whole ride and not have to hold anything!
Just yesterday I watched a woman who was asleep standing over a man who was seated below her, who was also asleep. They were both in what seemed like deep sleep – the kind in which you can accidentally dribble. And she did…the slitter of saliva fell from her mouth, slid down her chin and… fell…fell all the way down off her own face and dropped onto the man's hand. He, also being asleep, was completely unaware of what had just happened, but woke as soon as the dribble hit his hand. His immediate reaction was embarrassment (it comes easily to the Japanese) and he rapidly licked the dribble off his hand, thinking it was his own, and then wiped his mouth in case of any excess. The lady standing over him saw the whole thing and was mortified! She walked away to stand elsewhere, her eyes wide and blushing pink. There really is no where as polite as Japan!
Or there are taxis, which are equally brilliant, and symbolic of Japan's attention to detail. As you approach the taxi the backdoor will automatically open, because it is controlled by the driver, and you slip into clean back seats that are covered in immaculate white doyleys as a stamp of hygiene. The driver is fully equipped with every gadget at the front, so that your journey is as efficient and direct as possible – and the GSP is the first device to be consulted (as opposed to the continuation of his telephone conversation as in NYC).You arrive, you pay, you are treated with the utmost respect as though you are almost royalty, the door is opened for you and you walk out and are on your way, as the door automatically and silently closes behind you.
Food
Then there is the food. Bread, grease, and sugary drinks, that are common in our daily diet in the west now upset my stomach. Japanese food is easily the healthiest in the world I think. There are very few fat people here, skin and hair radiates, and people live to a fine old age looking 20-30 years younger than they are. Surely fish, rice and miso soup has something about it then. The average westerner has 4.5 kilos of fish a year, compared to the average Japanese who would have 67 kilos of fish, so of course there would be some difference in our physique. But they are so very much more healthy that this difference is more than just an observation, it feels as though it is a secret truth. Furthermore, the food is delicious. I have never been so keen on Sushi or noodles when eaten in the west, but here, it is something else. The blend of ingredients, the freshness and the size of portions, make each meal time an absolute delight. On top of which, the drinks are refreshing (iced tea, caspis (pronounced cow piss, so there is an alternative name available in English ;-), and barley wheat are examples) and there is warming green tea offered with everything, and strong but tasty Japanese beer or warm or cold sake (strong rice wine or whiskey) as the classic alcoholic alternative. These are just a few examples, for the list of curries and noodles are endless, but you get my point.
Design
Design is everywhere and perfectly blended with art. In homes everything is compact and well thought out, and generally there is minimalist theme present. So there are little spaces or containers for almost everything. Tokyo is perhaps one of the most expensive cities in terms of real estate in the world, so space is well used, but even outside Tokyo, the more that can be done with space the better, especially given the relationship between space, cleanliness and order, with harmony. So, there is little clumber some furniture, because everything can be done easily on the floor (sitting, eating, relaxing etc) and containers and wardrobes save space, and keep the possibility of chaos away.
Gadgets
This leads me neatly on to the gadgets and gismos. Now where do I or can I begin? This area is too large to cover thoroughly, but I can sum up by saying that technology is easily 2-3 years ahead than anywhere else in the world, and perhaps will always reach a level that is incomprehensible to the western world due to our inability to read manuals I was told yesterday. This is true given the fact that a simple VHS still causes confusion in some households in the west, proven by a recent marketing, whilst here even a PDA is seen as outdated. I was amazed by the replacement of a palm, that was shown to me yesterday. It was a laptop, with the same capability and functionality as the laptops that we use, but the size of a PDA. I am not sure how it was possible, but believe me when I say that even typing on the tiny keypad was made easy due to the spacing used. Then there are the mobile phones. OMG! We really are behind when I look at what everyone is carrying here, and given the fact that almost everyone changes their mobile phone here, on average, every six months, they really are all carrying the latest. Well, here all mobile phones can assist your navigation anywhere in the world, not only through built in GPS, and the internet – such that you can browse on your cell phone, read a book, edit the photo or film that you have just taken with your cell, send and receive emails, check any newspaper or service provider, download music in any format from the net, store anything additional on the inbuilt memory card readers, etc – but they are all java scripted, so that you can program them to do whatever you which by rewriting or adding programs. Too good to be true? Feel free to check any of this technology via the website for i-mode. Technology here is not used to make life more complicated, but rather to make life as easy as could be possible. So you if are disabled, or generally require home help, then there are robots available of every description ready to complete any task, from cleaning the house to cleaning and looking after you. I kid you not. Infact, there are such devices in every household. For example, I have not been to a public or private toilet yet, which is not designed such that you need to do nothing apart from sit down on it. The seat is thermostatically controlled so that it is never too cold for your bum. You do your part, of releasing your waste, and if that it is difficult, the toilet can make the sound of a waterfall, or bring peace through the sound of chirping birds, or make the fake sound of a toilet flushing in case you want to make noise and are too embarrassed to (as is the case for women in public toilets). Then once you have released, water will squirt up or sideways, depending on your preference, cleaning everything, and then warm air will dry your backside, which is more hygienic and preferable to using tissues. The toilet can even talk to you if you wish. Though I have never been on one long enough, because the process is made so efficient!
Vending
Now, if this still does not seem like a easy place to be, then imagine that you can get anything that you want at anytime from a vending machine. Beyond fast food, drinks and cigarettes, you can get complete meals from any nationality (naan bread and curries included!), any toy or gadget or appliance, and even soiled school girls knickers, if that is what turns you on! I kid you not, and I so wish I were!
School Girls
This brings me on to the school girls. I arrived on Saturday, when there were many girls out on the streets, dressed in school uniform, so I thought that perhaps school runs until Saturday morning. But I saw just as many girls on Sunday, and the skirts were short, the socks were always knee length and ties were fashionably loose. I decided to mention them in conversation and was told that these were the modern day geishas almost. Some girls were dressed in this way because it is iconic of youth and sexiness right now, but others were dressed in this way, because this was THE outfit to be a hostess in, and entertain men. A very popular activity in Japan, and a lucrative extra activity for women or girls. There are other big fashions too – belts for a skirt, stiletto's and tight, ripped, tops (fur and velvet) are popular right now, gothic and what I can only described as Madonna from the eighties. What runs in common in all three styles are extremism. Girls, and boys here, have hair of every colour, style and form. Why? Because when you are all born with black hair and brown eyes, then something has to be done to make you look different and for you to stand out. Hence the importance of fashion. Branded goods are another way to make yourself stand out, and purses are the primary mode of competition.
Impressed
Straight back is essential and everything is designed with this in mind, from the futon to the seating, or rather, the lack of seating. In a traditional Japanese home it is normal to spend more time on the floor than on chairs, and the taught position is to buckle your legs underneath you so that you are sitting with a straight back with your bum on your feet almost. A family will eat on the floor and then relax on the floor, and so there is no cushioning to encourage slumber, and self discipline and training is required. Sitting and eating lower down is also a sign of humility and respect…all good things.
Everything in a Japanese home, and I mean everything, is also neat and tidy. More than that, it is immaculate. I was at a friend's home recently and the damp chilled towels handed around before and after dinner, even though we all washed our hands before and after dinner is an example of the mix of eastern and western traditions making Japan seem a little over the top re. cleanliness and hygiene. Everything was like this. For example, you take your shoes off before entering a house - an eastern tradition, but then this is taken a step further because you will be given a pair of slippers for your visit instead. This is to protect your feet from the spotless wooden floor, and to protect the floor from your soft clean feet. On top of this, there may be some rooms, such as the bathroom, which will have it's own pair of slippers, awaiting your arrival. They were always ready and waiting so that they are the first thing that you encounter as you open the door, and they face the bathroom, so that you can just slip them on. I suppose that this is well thought out, because in the middle of the night it could be that you forget to wear your own slippers. Or for example, there was not a spec of dust to be seen, yet everything was covered just in case, such as the fruit in the fruit bowl. In a similar fashion I noticed that it was not uncommon to wear white gloves linen gloves when going outside, especially if using public transport. A delicate reminder of how it is important to stay clean and hygienic, and checking the environment around you.
Hard Working
There is not only competition in how one looks, but also on how one performs, in the work place. The Japanese are very hard working, and the longer you are seen to be spending in the office the better. Face time is important, as well as obedience. The way to succeed professionally is to always agree with your boss, ask as few questions as possible and say yes a lot. If in anyway you manage to disrespect (the biggest no, no) then you quickly bow, beg forgiveness, and almost false a stutter – showing how deeply embarrassed you are. The more I listen to Japanese, the more I realise that this stutter is easy to perform and sounds great when infused with the quiet, polite, mind language. So you might wonder how it is that they are so successful, if any kind variation from the hierarchy is so frowned upon. Where does innovation come from? Well, this is the surprising thing, there is little innovation, the success of the Japanese comes from the fact that they are able to research to the n-th degree, and create thorough and complete structures and systems, that have considered every eventuality and that everyone then follows.
Educational System
A disagreement between the Japanese is the most educational scene I have come across yet. Both parties keep nodding their head, and saying yes (they will avoid saying no, at all costs) and they make no agreement and no decision (because then one would be obviously wrong or in shame before another). So in the work place, decisions are made very slowly, especially because no one wants to take responsibility for the decision anyway). But once made, a good few years later, then everyone in the company will follow it completely, and there will be no waste of time in disagreement or divergence. If you are ever thought to question something, then your immediate reaction (if you are sitting on the floor for example) should be to bring your head down, before your knees, so that it is touching the floor, and place both of your hands on either side of your head. (For anyone who has seen Memoirs of a Geisha recently, you would recognise this). It is a perfectly normal and even expected way to say sorry, even today. There are many consequences of this that I am sure you can imagine. You are in a presentation, whether it is at school or the workplace – you would never ever question the presenter. Whether you understand or not, or even if it is to improve the presentation – never must you question and undermine the presenter's authority. So often there may be misunderstandings etc, but all questions should be asked in private, so that authority and respect remain in tact.
Engrish is brilliant. It is not English – but Engrish – the oriental version of English. I have a T-shirt now that says: 'Eric, Clapton?'
And one that says: 'I am so happy that I just want to go Bang!'
My favourite printing company, based on the heart of Kyoto: 'Screw Press'
And the best sign that I have seen on the door of a restaurant: 'Kill you Kindly'
Perhaps it was meant to say 'Will you kindly'…keep the door closed?! I am not sure, but I guess the Japanese are. Engrish is everywhere, and it is great – you will have a laugh several times a day, plus, guaranteed!
Silence
Silence is bliss. It is the desired state of being, and a reflection of harmony.
I did not realize, but from the moment I arrived I have really enjoyed this fact. Just slipped into it, so that my hearing is much more attuned, and if there is any disturbance of peace then I am the first to notice and you want to fix it immediately. Even the music is really delicate and harmonious.
Culture
I had learned a lot about the culture, the hard way. For example, I had managed to offend my Japanese friends family even before arrival. They had invited me to attend a traditional tea ceremony on Sunday afternoon. I had arrived into Japan on Saturday evening, and feel asleep like every other Japanese, after a good round food, drink and Karaoke, in a Alice in Wonderland themed room. I awoke the next day when a friend was gently calling my name, and the day was breaking. Is everything alright? I was asked. Hummmm…yes, great, why, whats happened? Um…nothing, that is the point, you slept through the whole day and your Japanese friend, Hide, was becoming worried.
Child-like
The society works so well that people do not have to think. Everything is done for them, especially for their countries, and so very few issues have to be addressed.
People fall asleep everywhere, in the tube - ok, so we have seen that else where but here you look for the person awake. They are so polite though, and considerate of others, that they would do anything but disturb the person next to them. It is all about personal space, but not in order to maintain your own but to make sure that the other has it. For example, most books are small, as are gadgets or anything else, but even normally big things, like a broadsheet newspaper, will be folded up so neatly so that you can read it without disturbing another.
Single women
A survey was carried out amongst single women in Japan, which learned that over 72% would rather stay single than marry. When I spoke to women about this statistic they would generally agree and then explain why. Traditionally marriages were arranged, and this culture is still strong, but more and more young people find their own, but as with anything in Japan, this is still done through introduction. In the Japanese culture there are like speed dating events that happen all the time, all over the country, because this is what is just to match make now, as opposed to the parents. A friend will invite a group of his/her single male and female friends, in the hope that one couple will hit it off, and since everyone knows what this socialising is for, conversations naturally lead to subjects like marriage, etc, and normally at least one couple will be formed. Most couples that I met in Japan met in this way. This is because the family background, and knowing about the person through others is still important in Japan, firstly for ones own need for recommendation, but also because there are some particular things that a woman and man are looking for, which they would rather know was there, than to find out after they are attracted to one another. Traditionally a woman would stay at home, after marriage and be a house wife and raise children, whilst the man would work. This is so common that most men still give their entire salary to their wives, who then give their husband a little pocket money in return. Anyway, as salaries have increased, and women have begun to earn the same if not more than men, the need for women to marry has decreased. There is no need for financial support. So rather than give up their career the woman would rather not marry, and the older the lady becomes, the more true the phenomenon is. Most single women get to live with their parents, and so do not have any household responsibilities and they get to save a lot of money. From this description it would sound as though the women are being materialistic, but it is such reasons for which they would marry in the first place, and now it is for such reason that they would stay single. It is just more profitable to stay single. It is hard to do both, as is common in the west, because on the whole companies expect your life here. I was often alone, lost in Translation, not because I did not know anyone, but because everyone is at work, and they would leave for the office at 7 or 8 and not come home until 7-8 or even 9. Some friends would break for dinner at 10, and then go back to the office for 2am, whilst during my time in Japan, one of my closest Japanese friend even slept at the office.
Is this because they really work so hard, or that they are inefficient, or that this is to impress the boss with face time? Answer, all of the above. Furthermore, it is harder for women to receive promotions and rise within the company, so by the time that this does begin to happen, in their thirties, they have normally invested so much that they do not want to leave. As a consequence there are a lot of advertisements that show these career women, which used to show housewives. There are love hotels – room that you can book for three hours, for obvious reasons, host and hostess clubs – for a pretend girl/ boyfriend, and even comfort pillows – a pillow shaped as a man's chest or a ladies lap, for the lonely opposite sex. This June Japan official turned a corner, and has slipped into population decline, with fewer people marrying, it makes you wonder about the future of the Japanese. Of course, financial incentives are being offered by the government but they do not meet people's salaries, which are amongst the highest in the world. I rarely saw children in Tokyo, it is almost as though they do not exist, and those that I did see, act as well behaved miniature, well dressed little adults. They are adorable. Many people choose not to have a child, or only have one child, being manageable and less expensive. When you are on the Islands of Japan, it becomes hard to step back and think about how they cope with this problem of decreasing population else where.
Loneliness
But this is in fact not the reason I felt lonely. I think this was because of the language barrier and it was huge! But it is more that people are really guarded and did not talk. Not about important emotional things. Not to me, but not to each other either. Many people confirmed this for me. Therapists or counselling is almost unheard of, yet suicide is – in a big way. You would not believe it but Japan has one of the highest rates of suicide in the world. Out of a population of 120 million, it is estimated that at the very least 30,000 people commit suicide in Japan, alone. Most of this number is made up of men between the ages of 40-50. The most common reason for suicide are failed businesses. The man often has sole responsibility of earning for the household, and in such a situation the overly aggressive bullies that are employed to get lent money returned can make you and your family's life hell. This became such a problem that the Japanese had to introduce some special laws protecting people, but still the bullying continues. Often the wife and children have to begin working, and so the man may choose to commit suicide. Why? Mostly out of duty. Even this act is done to provide for his family by the health insurance payout that will result from his death. That is taking responsibility. So some parts of the Samaria mentality do continue in modern life. The second most commonly affected demographic are girls from 10-20. I do hope that the Japanese will begin to share, talk and confide more than I saw them doing so.
Perfect
The society is perfect in many ways. No disease, very little illness in fact and a life expectancy of almost one hundred – the highest in the world so they must be doing something right! There is also very little crime, and sometimes it felt like no crime. You can leave any bag, camera, purse anywhere, and it is also guaranteed to be there when you return. No one harms the other intentionally, and I think that this is one piece of evidence that this is one of the last remaining group mentality nations in the world. People do not think about themselves, they think about the group first. You can see this in really small examples too. No one J walks apart from Foreigners, because here, people are aware that the laws are made for a reason, and for everyone's overall benefit, so everybody respects.
Eternal Youth
This is really what it seems that the Japanese have. Even the old people only look a little wrinkly, they never look that old. Not sure how to explain it, but you rarely see anyone with a beer belly (they cannot genetically handle so much alcohol anyway), or dark circles, or bad skin, or saggy xyz. This is for several reasons, but I think that the main is their diet. Each meal is a real energy boost, and not only do you not feel tired after eating, but you also actually need a lot less sleep. Or least my period in Japan is the least amount of sleep I have ever needed, and others say the same. That is why they can work hard, and yet also party so hard. (And they do party, with perhaps one of the most vibrant night life in the world too!). Their diet means that they retain their good skin, silky hair, and hydrated skin. Do you feel sick yet?
The government is partly to thank for this. They make everything within the country or anything that has come from outside the country, healthy. McDonalds food is changed (watered down and purified) to meet Japanese regulations, as is anything imported. One example would be cheesecake, which is modified so that it only contains a fraction of fact compared to the original. Still the Japanese are obsessed with the fact that they might become fat, and so every packet has all nutritional value including the calories, as do most menu's in restaurant, snacks foods, and even drinks. What I found the most helpful is the fact that general stores here hardly carry any junk, but rather have packets filled with healthy sheets of seaweed. Or tuna! This may be your train, because I do not think that this is the last one.
No wonder they created the world within Japan, literally. There are little countries that have been recreated to the last detail, so that those that want to travel but without the inconvenience of disease or crime, can visit the mini Canada or Netherlands, say, without having to hassle with travelling or exchanging money!
Service
The service is incredible. You are greeted with a pleasant smile and respect all the time, with endless bows, which too makes you very willing to oblige and not displease. The result are respectful people everywhere, who speak in hushed tones and are sorry and thankful the whole time, ie. very polite. Simple things make all the difference and there does not appear to be any outward aggression. I am not sure where aggression, anger or frustration goes, but I would like to believe that it is being internally managed. Of course, Japan having on the highest suicide rates in the world would suggest that not everyone is balanced or trained in emotional management, but the government are working on this and there are more and more courses, counsellors and therapists available. Only it may not be the 'done' thing, quite yet.
Hiroshima
So Japan…well the place that I had heard about the most, perhaps even more often than Toyko, is Hiroshima. It is hard to imagine that there had been an nuclear bomb thrown into mid air directly above the centre of this city. The only nuclear attack that this world has ever seen, with unimaginable consequences. More than half a million people were killed in less than five seconds. The rest died a little after five minutes, and those that did not die in the bomb blast directly died in the aftermath of burning buildings, the rubble, the lack of food and water for days. There was a sudden desert as far as the eye could see, and everyone in this sphere died. But the list of deaths grows every today. But to talk about the II World War needs real sensitivity, and in Japan it is a subject better left alone.
There is so much to see in Japan otherwise…Kyoto, Osaka, Hemiji, Islands, the list goes on and on. This place is a real must.
posted by Mandeep Rai at 6:35 AM
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